Thursday, May 15, 2008

Warm hair and eyes, cool skin? YES - it is possible!

I have had a lovely bit of correspondance from JerseyGirl in the last few days, and with her kind permission I'd like to post it here, thinking that perhaps it might benefit somebody else!

Without further ado -

Hi Bridget!

I just read your notepad and some of your blogs on color. (I found an old post that had the link). I was wondering if you could help me, as you are definitely an expert on this stuff! Very informative! (Oh my goodness - what a sweetheart JerseyGirl is!!)

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out this color thing. I still can't figure out what category I fit into. I have brown eyes and had honey/strawberry blonde hair as a child. I don't tan well at all, am very pale, but over the summer, I get a very very light golden cast to my skin. I've heard people tell me my skin is pink, but I've also been told it is more peach too. I look best in black and brown, and also cool toned reds with a hint of wine or burgundy, and deep emerald or deep turquoise green colors. I look better in white than cream. I can pull off peachy orange or yellow (mostly when I have a bit of a tan), but camel gold makes me look sick. I feel like when I wear dark pink shades of blush, I come alive, but peach doesn't give me that effect. I can pull off blonde and red hair (and colored it red recently actually, with many compliments, but when it becomes brassy faded orange, it doesn't look as good)

Any ideas? I'm confused, because I think I have warm hair and eyes, but perhaps cool skin. If this is the case, I want to make sure I'm playing up my features as best as I can.

Thanks and sorry so long winded!!


Hi! I'm glad you emailed me!

From your description is sounds as though you do indeed have a cool or neutral/cool skintone! What clinched it was the description of camel gold making you look ill. That is a warm color, about the warmest one, and one which is NOT possible to have a cool variant of.

Your hair looks lovely! What I see in the pictures is a vibrant, bright true clear auburn red - which would be very very striking with a cool or cool/neutral skintone.

With your light brown eyes and red hair or strawberry blonde hair, most MAs and sales folks would want to peachify you to death - tons of amber, olive, khaki and so on. You could wear those colors, of couse, and they would harmonize nicely with your eyes and hair, but would probably wash you out and leave you looking pale and wan Always remember there is a distinct difference between LOOKING pale and BEING pale. Being pale is fine, even desirable if your natural skintone is in fact pale. LOOKING pale can apply to anyone, and indicates ill health or unflattering color choice.

Based on your description, I'd steer you toward clear, saturated colors - look at a classic Winter color palette - start there and then desaturate (make paler by adding white), or mute (make duller by adding grey) or warm slightly (by adding yellow) until you find the exact tones that suit you best. I'd love to see you in a cobalt blue top, or a vivid periwinkle, or even a bold raspberry pink. Chrome yellow - the clearest sharpest tone - would also be very striking and dramatic. All those clear and true colors will be gorgeous on you.

Have you found a Mac foundation match yet? That can be helpful too - as long as the match is actually correct. If you are fair, try matching color to your neck or collarbone, since fair skins often carry way more color in their faces due to freckles or flushing and such. If you match just the face, you run the risk of looking like you borrowed your tan sister's head for the day, or like you've been working in a gravel pit and need to wash the dirt off. When you match your collarbone or neck, even if the shade is technically lighter than your face, you'll end up with a cohesive and blended look. Once it's on, you won't look like Geisha Girl, all cherry blossom white and pale. You'll just look like a beautiful and luminescent YOU.

Does this help at all? I hope so!

Oh, one last thing - if you do get a MAC match and find yourself in an NC or C (neutral yellow and yellow, respectively), DO NOT flip out and decide you "must be warm" . Yellow tones are actually NEUTRAL, since they sit between red (warm) and blue (cool). Wear the colors you feel good and look great in, whatever they might be.

email me any time!

-b.


Thanks Bridget, for taking the time to reply at length. That made me feel so much better, because I'd read stuff about seasons, and while at first glance I always thought I was an autumn, I'd read further and see many colors recommended that didn't look good on me at all.

Funny you mentioned looking at the winter palette and doing variations of the colors. When I was in high school (20 years ago) and sporting my natural strawberry blonde hair, I got lots of compliments when I wore lavender, mint green, and royal blue! So what you're saying makes sense! Then I got older, thought I was wiser, read that those colors were a no-no and then never really wore them since.

I will have to go get a MAC match. Will they help me at the counter with this? I am always so skeptical too, because of the fluorescent lighting in stores, I'd love to get the match done in natural daylight. I don't wear much foundation, because my sunscreen has a tint which helps. If there are particular foundations from MAC you like, I'd love to know. My skin is a bit dry with some fine lines, but I can get oily as the day goes on, since I live in a humid climate.

Thanks again for your reply - it really makes so much sense now!!



I'm glad you found it helpful!

I think there are likely lots of people with cool/neutral skin and warmer hair and eyes that are probably struggling with color selection. I know I struggled for years and years and years, and still even now default to brown clothing WAY too often. I do ok with makeup, pretty unafraid of color (I'll wear a hot pink lippie, or a red or purple one, and I'll also wear chartruese, gold, periwinkle, orange or red eyeshadows, too!), but I'd guess about 85% of my wardrobe is black or brown, and I really only wear a handful of colors...

Are you LOVING your red hair? It's such a great color - looks awesome in your pics!

Oh - about Mac foundations, I am really no expert on their formulas (nearest counter is about 300 miles away from me). But their color numbering has become sort of "universal". Prescriptives is very good that way too - four color families, then various depths in each. So just as a bit of scientific research, it might be fun to get color matched at either (both would be even better!) counter. Then you'd have a sense of where you fall in commercial lines. DEFINITELY don't make a purchase decision until you've worn a color for a full day at least, and checked it in all sorts of lighting. Fluorescent lighting can make even an otherwise great colormatch look off, and the cool blue/green hue of fluorescent bulbs really makes pinkish shades look SO pretty, even if it clashes with your skintone. No matter where you go, ask for a small sample of foundation - enough for 2-3 days is usually what they'll give you. Nordstrom has small glass vials they can fill with product, or little flat white snap compacts. Take the samples home and really just play with them, stripe your cheek and jaw with the different colors and look in all different lighting. I like a magnifying mirror for this. You'll soon figure out which undertones are most prominent in your skin. Also match color to your collarbone and throat. It's even a good experiement to apply it to well protected skin to see undertone. (I use my belly, since it NEVER gets sun on it, and it's easier to see than my bum :) )

Anyway, have fun experiementing !

Also remember that skintone "temperature" is just one part of the equation. You also have degree of clarity vs mutedness (how much grey is in a color, or how much beige is in your skin) and then degree of contrast between hair and skin (ie how much lighter or darker your hair looks than you skin in a black and white photo). Clear and high contrast needs clear, saturated colors to really shine. Muted tones or low contrast outfits will just sort of drag you down.

My own example - dark red hair, pale peachy skin, green-grey eyes. High contrast, slightly muted but not as much as a classic auburn, definitely warm skin. I wore a light aqua shirt with teal and gold stripes the other day - put it on under an oatmeal colored sweater, which pulled the gold stripe forward. Shirt looks great on me, sweater looks great on me, but together there was no contrast between the depth of aqua and the oatmeal, so I looked and FELT very ungrounded, blah, washed out. Swapped the oatmeal sweater for a chocolate brown one, which also pulled the gold stripe forward, and looked a million times better. Even more importantly, I felt comfortable. Sweaters were the exact same style, btw. Chocolate sweater gave better contrast with the light aqua shirt.

Basically, the aqua shirt, oatmeal sweater and my skin were all of similar depth, so everything just blended into a mush. Dark sweater was the same depth as my hair color, so it popped against my skin.

Thanks for the nice remarks on my blog - it's so sadly neglected these days. I try to post now and then, though. Want to do more!

Be well and happy!


-b.


So there you have it - a short course on the possibility of warm hair and eyes and cool skintone.

Now - if JerseyGirl wasn't typing out as a "classic" autumn by the four season theories, what else COULD she have been?

OK - strawberry or honey blonde hair definitely won't be Winter. Could be spring or summer, though. Both are lighter plaettes, spring being warm and clear, and summer being cool and muted. From her description of wearing a deep pink blush and coming alive but not popping at all while wearing a peach blush, I think it's safe to say that spring isn't where JerseyGirl falls. So that puts us in the summer palettes, which are COOL. Summer also tends to be relatively muted, softened, sort of vintage chintz colors, and from her descriptions and the picture she shared with me (use your imagination, please), her "new" red hair color is simply way too vibrant for the classic summer palette - in all those sunwashed shades, she'd just look a little washed out herself. Hence the advice to shift her attention to the winter palette, and then dial up or down on the intensity and degree of coolness at will.

Now, in a few more contemporary books on color analysis (Uniquely You is a great one, although it's a bit older) they break 4 seasons into 12, which gives MUCH more leeway, and also allows for variants or hybrids of seasons, such as my "late autumn", which is a Winter/Autumn hybrid the book calls of Bright Autumn or September. I don't have the book right in front of me, but I'd bet that JerseyGirl would recognize herself in the Summer/Winter hybrid or the Summer/Autumn hybrid. But my money is on the Summer/Winter blend!

Anyway, there you have it. Hope it was helpful. And if YOU Have a color question, for heaven's sake, please feel free to email it to me, or post it as a comment on the blog. I don't guarantee to have ALL the answers, but I'll sure tell you what I think!

12 Comments:

Blogger nolongeruse said...

Thank you very much for this info! This helps me immensely!

6/23/2008 4:17 PM  
Blogger Karin said...

People always want to put me in warms because of my eye (brown) and hair (light golden blond)colors but I look better in cools for makeup. I can wear across the color families in clothes depending on the season of the year.

I had my colors done by someone years ago and she said you can wear all the colors in your eyes, the color of the inside of your mouth (that shade of red), and the red that you can flush from the inside of your hand, and the white of your teeth/white of your eyes. If you carry a purse in your hair color, it will always be your neutral.

8/15/2008 11:45 AM  
Blogger Gisele said...

Dear Bridget,

I also have split coloring. I was wondering if you could tell me what season I am, and possibly whether I am warm or cool. I have very fair skin. I don't know if I have pink or peach undertones, because it depends on the color I wear. That is, peach with yellow clothes, pink with white clothes. I look bad in both white and cream because they wash me out. Black is a bad color, but brown is good. I also have freckles and strawberry-blonde hair. However I burn easily, I have blue veins, and blue-green eyes. Help me please!
From, Gisele

11/09/2008 4:04 PM  
Blogger midori_cassie said...

Hi my name is Cassie and I was wondering if you could help me out. I have been researching color analysis alot. I still and unsure what season I am,or rather I know what palette might suit me best. But I am not sure if I qualify.

I have(Not even sure what to call my hair type)My hair is brown with red in it. It can get strawberry/golden blonde highlights in the summer. If I take a black and white picture of me in a hot pink shirt my hair has more of a contrasting color than the shirt.

My eyes are Green with Orange around the pupil,with a dark ring around the iris. It look like its possibly dark blue. The whites of my eyes are very white. I have some dark freckles(only like 3 or so and they are not very warm colored). My eye lashes are practically black naturally. People think I am wearing mascara sometimes.

My skin is very pale. Very Alabaster. People always say I glow in my picture compared to everyone else. My veins looks blue and purple and then sometimes a turquoise color depending on the area. The blush I wear is more of a reddish pink,and the lipstick I wear is toned down fushia. If I wear peach blushes they can quickly look strong on me,but Icy peach can sometimes blend into my skin. So I am not sure if I have pink,blue,yellow,beige,or peach tones.My lip color is a nice dark rose pink.

Lets see for colors:
I've asked people time and time again what colors they think look best. They say well not many colors look bad its just some look better than others. I have been told jewel tones look best. And I agree plus I like them.

Greys look good,and dark grey makes my skin look more pink,and my red hair stand out more.

For whites I am not sure. I think it looks pretty good. I know I need to be careful with offwhite because if they become to muted or to beige they look bad on me. Beige is not my color.

I look good in a wide array of reds it really just depends on my mood what I want to wear. I am sure some look better than others though.

Coral looks good on me,I can pull of true orange rather well. Light peach doesn't look bad but it blends to me so it can look blah. Rust made me look to pale.

Many yellows look good as long as they are clear and not mustard/golden yellows.

Greens look good as well. However Charteuse,sage,aqua green,sea green,and olive are not good on me.

Many blues look good except for grey blue,or any really muted blue.

Lavender,Violet,dark purple look good. I can't think of the names of any that look bad but those are the ones I wear.

Hot pink and pinks look great even salmon pink but its not as good as hot pink or fushia.

Turqoise looks great and so does aqua but dull dark teals look off.

Dark brown looks good the other browns do not look as good.

Black usually look good to.

So do you think you could help me out =)
Thank you so much for your time Bridget I know its alot but more details means you can paint a better picture.

I've just been wearing clear spring and clear winter colors as of now.

6/15/2011 4:12 PM  
Blogger midori_cassie said...

Hi my name is Cassie and I was wondering if you could help me out. I have been researching color analysis alot. I still and unsure what season I am,or rather I know what palette might suit me best. But I am not sure if I qualify.

I have(Not even sure what to call my hair type)My hair is brown with red in it. It can get strawberry/golden blonde highlights in the summer. If I take a black and white picture of me in a hot pink shirt my hair has more of a contrasting color than the shirt.

My eyes are Green with Orange around the pupil,with a dark ring around the iris. It look like its possibly dark blue. The whites of my eyes are very white. I have some dark freckles(only like 3 or so and they are not very warm colored). My eye lashes are practically black naturally. People think I am wearing mascara sometimes.

My skin is very pale. Very Alabaster. People always say I glow in my picture compared to everyone else. My veins looks blue and purple and then sometimes a turquoise color depending on the area. The blush I wear is more of a reddish pink,and the lipstick I wear is toned down fushia. If I wear peach blushes they can quickly look strong on me,but Icy peach can sometimes blend into my skin. So I am not sure if I have pink,blue,yellow,beige,or peach tones.My lip color is a nice dark rose pink.

Lets see for colors:
I've asked people time and time again what colors they think look best. They say well not many colors look bad its just some look better than others. I have been told jewel tones look best. And I agree plus I like them.

Greys look good,and dark grey makes my skin look more pink,and my red hair stand out more.

For whites I am not sure. I think it looks pretty good. I know I need to be careful with offwhite because if they become to muted or to beige they look bad on me. Beige is not my color.

I look good in a wide array of reds it really just depends on my mood what I want to wear. I am sure some look better than others though.

Coral looks good on me,I can pull of true orange rather well. Light peach doesn't look bad but it blends to me so it can look blah. Rust made me look to pale.

Many yellows look good as long as they are clear and not mustard/golden yellows.

Greens look good as well. However Charteuse,sage,aqua green,sea green,and olive are not good on me.

Many blues look good except for grey blue,or any really muted blue.

Lavender,Violet,dark purple look good. I can't think of the names of any that look bad but those are the ones I wear.

Hot pink and pinks look great even salmon pink but its not as good as hot pink or fushia.

Turqoise looks great and so does aqua but dull dark teals look off.

Dark brown looks good the other browns do not look as good.

Black usually look good to.

So do you think you could help me out =)
Thank you so much for your time Bridget I know its alot but more details means you can paint a better picture.

I've just been wearing clear spring and clear winter colors as of now.

6/15/2011 4:12 PM  
Blogger midori_cassie said...

Sorry for double posting I am not sure how it happened. I also should mention I have some golden brown freckles on my body but very few. And that my hair can sometimes also has a slight ashy quality despite the red.

6/15/2011 4:15 PM  
Blogger arabianhorselover said...

This describes me! There is no doubt that my coloring is Cool. My veins look very blue, my skin looks best with Cool colors, and Gold jewelry looks awful on me.

My hair is a medium Golden Blond, and my eyes are hazel. Green and gold in strong light.

I look fine in Black, since I have enough color in my cheeks that it doesn't make me look pale. A pale pink is my best color. Blue is great, also.

i look fine with my hair colored Red, as i have coloring like a natural Redhead.

12/19/2011 11:36 AM  
Blogger arabianhorselover said...

Okay

12/19/2011 11:38 AM  
Blogger Rin said...

Thank goodness I found this! I was wondering if you could recommend some colors, or shades of colors to go-to or avoid. I'm a mix, too. Pale Hispanic, with warm overtones (yellow cast to skin like some Asians) and cool undertones, I cannot wear warm colors. I wear silver, not gold. I look best in white, blue-red and some shades of blue. But I'd really like to expand my wardrobe beyond those three colors! To make matters more confusing, I have brown hair in between light and medium with lots of natural orange pigments, some red, and a tiny amount of blonde in my bangs. I fit in no classification I have found so far! Please help! rinlonde@gmail.com

8/03/2014 10:32 PM  
Blogger titianmom said...

My poor daughter is a tough one to classify, also. I'm your standard warm sping IMHO--auburn hair, medium blue-grey eyes and a vivid yellow skin tone that is pretty fair and burns easily.

But the girl is a combo of myself and my winter husband who has blue skin tone, deep brown hair, dark brown freckles and eyes.

She's got the prettiest titian hair--if you look at it closely, her head is full of: a blonde strand next to a brown strand next to a bright red one. In the sun, she glows a golden red; you can't get this in a bottle, LOL. She has a cousin just like her--gorgeous, enviable hair.

However.... my daughter inherited my -husband's obvious winter blue-toned skin, if you put their wrists together. Instead of tanning like he can, though, her fairer skin burns. She turns firey rosey pink to the touch if you were to grab her arm or whatever. What's really odd: As a baby she had light, golden freckles across her nose! All gone, now, of course. She's almost void of any freckles and those she has have turned dark brown like pop's.

She has blue eyes with a little grey to them that are a bit lighter than mine, so the contrast between her hair and eyes is minimal.

Its that skin that makes her hard to place. She's tried peachy lipsticks and they look *horrible* on her. She sticks to rose blushes and lipsticks. Frankly she doesn't need lipstick with those full, rosy lips of hers. I envy the kid (I've got thin, washed out lips; yuck.)

So...is she a light Spring or a light Summer or....what??? That golden red hair is definitely the first thing you notice. She gets comments on it all the time. She keeps it long with waves. A 40s hairdoo makes her look like a model. :)

1/21/2015 7:27 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Maybe someone can help me, as I think I too have split coloring. You can thank my parents -- Italian father and Irish mother. I have a fair complexion with some pink and some olive in it. The veins on my arm are a mix of blue/green. My hair is medium dark brown with a slight golden tint to it ( though it was almost black when I was younger) and my eyes are olive green (hazel). I have a hard time finding makeup or clothing that doesn't make me look washed out, pale, or sick. White, black, and beige are generally a no go for me. Chocolate brown looks good. Green kakhi, bubble gum pink, charcoal, mauve, wine, and robins egg blue also look nice on me. Otherwise other colors do not at all suit me. Help!

10/13/2017 12:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Another long comment incoming, dear Bridget.

I am really confused about my colors.

Let me explain... My veins can look blue, green AND purple depending on the area(sometimes two colors within the same area). I have green-brown type of hazel eyes(with the green coming out in very specific conditions, otherwise it usually looks brown and in really dark areas, near black), brown hair that has shades of seemingly both red and blonde in different lighting. Fluorescent lights make me look sick. My skin has a very yellow shade at times, but I blush very saturated pink and I'm kinda fair, but still darker than my own family members by a shade or so(One of my sisters is ivory, quite literally! And she's rocking a darker red hair now and that looks AMAZING on her, but she has a slightly copper-toned brown hair naturally. I had a redhead grandma with dark blue eyes and VERY pale skin with some light-colored freckling. Sadly, she's no longer alive). My eyelashes and eyebrows are nearly black. I don't tan easily, I can burn, but then I turn sorta(?) brown(Not sure entirely, since I hate tanning) and it can last annoyingly long.

The colors I like tend to be very bold in chromatic colors, black is kinda not the best, but not the worst, in greys I tend to like lighter shades, but I CAN be seen wearing medium ones as well. White looks outright not good on me, in my opinion. I prefer silver over gold. I hate how gold looks on me even though because of my allergic ear I'm forced to only silver or gold. Plainer metals just don't work without irritation on me if worn over a certain amount of time, usually a few hours. I have never tried rose gold or white gold, though... I am thinking they might actually fit better than plain gold. Any beige or skin-toned clothing looks AWFUL on me. I can never find anything that doesn't make me look either tanned, which I dislike as a look on me, or just is off. I wear reds, pinks, corals, but also blues, greens etc., pretty much nearly all the color wheel with nearly the same amount of success. People compliment me on the bold colors. I myself tend to dislike washed out/dull colors, yet I do not hate pastels. I always pair those up with something in the similar color category, but bolder and/or something a bit or completely different so as not to be dressed in too much of one color, though. I can wear oranges, but I never do, somehow... Not really what I like. Also, pretty hard for me to choose a fitting color other than some neutral color.

I hate yellow. I feel like it makes my features darker...

I'm not a huge makeup person, either, so I'm not sure what to do... I tend to like the "natural" look, but because of my inability to decide my skin tone, I just don't wear makeup. Honestly, I might only need slightly more skincare. I have a dry skin. I tend to think, though, that pinks might look good on my eyes, violets might as well, but browns, blacks and such seem like a BAD idea. BUT I am not sure.

What's most confusing is that I am by definition, a Caucasian. I was born near the Caucasus, very literally! So I have no damn idea what I'm supposed to do.

Honestly anyone who made it through this deserves a cookie.

4/09/2019 7:38 AM  

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