Saturday, February 23, 2008

A Redhead Color Typology

Below is somethng I wrote after MUCH contemplating on the whole Color Me Beautiful/Seasonality thing. As a redhead with dark hair and pale skin, I was always typed as an Autumn, which really didn't do much for either my mood or my coloring, truthfully. So I set out to fine tune color typing for redheads myself. I first posted this over at the Aromaleigh Forums - you can read the original post along with a bunch of feedback from other redheads by clicking on the blog title.

Enjoy!

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I’m sure you’ve probably heard or been told by well meaning people, cosmetics sales associates, image consultants, moms and sisters that “you look best in green.” Or “ you should stick with earth tones and neutrals.” Or “never wear black.” Or “you don’t look good in pink/red/orange/purple/grey/whatever.” How many times have you been told that you are “an autumn?” Or that your coloring “requires muted shades so as to not overpower you.” In my opinion - and that of top makeup artists and stylists - that’s all nonsense.

There are so many variations on the theme of Redheads - it makes choosing makeup and clothing colors both exhilarating and challenging! There are muted, Autumnal redheads with golden ivory skin and coppery hair. There are those ethereal, gossamer creatures with translucent, milky white skin and fiery or deep red hair. There are redheads with pinked, English rose complexions and strawberry locks. Peaches and cream redheads. A full range of high contrast, low contrast, clear and muted redheads!

With so many skin and hair combinations, how could it possibly make sense that all redheads will wear the same foundation, look best in the same colors of clothing, and choose the same (limited) palette of eye shadows and lip colors? Truth is, it doesn’t. And unless the person dispensing with advice is herself (or himself) a redhead passionate about fashion and makeup, they probably haven’t really given the topic a whole lot of thought.

On the other hand, I have.

Here are some breakdowns on redhead types and colors that can really make them stand out - even more than any of us already does! Remember - it is possible to be two or even three distinct types, although one type will probably feel the best, look the most polished or sophisticated or natural.

Muted: You might be a muted redhead if your skin tone is light with golden undertones. You might even have pale olive skin. Your hair can range from the coppery end of strawberry to the chestnut end of auburn. Your eyes might be grey-blue, any variant of green, brown, hazel, or amber. You instinctively reach for olive green rather than forest green, or chocolate brown rather than charcoal. If this is you, then you probably got some good advice from those well-meaning folks who recommended earth tones, neutrals, pumpkin, olive, russet and such. However, while those shades might be phenomenal on you in clothing, they might not serve you as well in makeup. Your coloring is gorgeously characterized by the relatively low level of contrast between your hair and skin tone - putting a dark, muted-to-the-point-of-drab tone on your face could end up making you look sallow and lack-luster. Rather than matte olive shadow, try a medium golden olive or khaki. Instead of pumpkin lipstick, blush or shadow, look for a warm bronzy shade with some life to it. Try some slightly subdued reddened coral on lips and cheeks. And remember to go for the gold - subtle, warm sparkle can really lift your look while still remaining appropriate for daytime.

Gossamer: You might be a gossamer redhead if your skin is translucent to the point of being nearly transparent. Your skin tone likely carries more pink and blue than it does yellow and olive tones. Your hair likely ranges from strawberry to medium coppery red. And your eyes are probably blue or green - from true blue indigo, through aqua to nearly emerald. Left to your own devices, you probably reach for clothing at the lighter end of the spectrum - pinks (even though someone told you redheads should avoid pink!), lavenders, gentle mint greens, dove grey and so on. If this is you, you might have been feeling like you just can’t make it work - the colors that you like - and that look great on you - just aren’t the shades recommended by the color typing books, the sales person at the cosmetics counter, or the clothing sales associate. Relax! Forget what others have been telling you about those earthy, rich tones that look so lovely on your muted sister, and reach for the colors present in a springtime garden. All those pastels you love? Go for it - in sweet sorbet tones for your eyes, and petal soft washes of color on your lips and cheeks. Just avoid colors that are distinctly cool-white based - instead of that milky pink gloss, try one that is just a bit less washed out, perhaps a pale rose with a golden highlight.

High contrast: The most distinctive aspect of your coloring is that your hair and skin sharply contrast. Your skin might be either pale golden ivory like your Muted sister, or the gentle pink or blue based pale of those Gossamer girls. Either way, your hair is dark red - auburn, burgundy, black-red (yes - this hair color is even present naturally!) and contrasts highly with the light value of your skin. Your eyes are probably in the blue/green/grey range, but hazel, amber and limpid chocolate are possible, too. This is a tricky redhead to dress and make up because all those rich earth tones which look smashing on a Muted and overpowering on a Gossamer really just make you look drab. And dull. And tired. If you have ever read the books Color Me Beautiful or Color Wonderful, you probably found colors on the Contrast and Winter palettes that worked beautifully for you. You need rich shades that are just slightly muted rather than clear and sharp like those found in those cool Winter palettes. In clothing, you probably can carry off black as well as a raven haired beauty. And shades like clear peacock blue, sharp, fresh apple green, slightly burnt orange, indigo, plum, and slightly browned wine make you sparkle! In makeup, look for colors that preserve that balance of clear to muted, but in slightly softer tones. Try a soft slate grey shadow along with tones of rich, fleshy pinks and wines (for a color cue, look at the inside of your lip, or pinch the end of your finger - the color of the blood under the skin is a great red tone for you !). Coppers that lean pink will be amazing on you, as will mahoganies, reddened plums, chocolate browns and golds. In lips, you can go a little cooler than your Muted sister - try a warmed up plum or burgundy along with nudes, and don’t forget the power of a deep, dark chocolate mouth, too. When you find the right red - a clear, just barely browned neutral red with just a slight hint of blue - the result will be stunning! I fall into this category myself, as did an old friend of mine with alabaster skin and bright copper hair. She could have been a Gossamer, but her skin tone was perfectly neutral - not heavily pink/blue. She wasn’t nearly as delicately translucent as a Gossamer, either. She wore colors straight from the Winter palette - cobalt blue, fuchsia, and anything that was a cool, clear bright. She even wore beautiful, hot flushed pink lipstick. She was a stunner!

English Rose: You might be an English Rose if the contrast level between skin and hair is relatively low. Your hair is probably a soft auburn, strawberry or gentled copper. Your skin tone is more pink, and you might be pale to medium complected. Your eyes are most likely blue or blue/grey. Like your Muted sister, your best colors will be slightly muted, but steer clear of the yellow-based shades she prefers. Instead, look at the colors of a vintage Chintz or English floral - those soft, lush shades of hushed rose, butter yellow, taupe, sage green, wisteria and iris. These are your best bets for clothing and makeup both! Accent your eyes with gentle, glowy yellows, lavender-rose, and fleshy, cooler taupe. Lips and cheeks shimmer in more roses, from tender baby pink to full-blown raspberry, just make sure to keep the colors on the muted end of the spectrum.

Peaches and Cream: Closely related to the Gossamer girl, you are also like Muted’s lighter, brighter sister. Your skin tone is pale to fair, with peachy golden tones rather than the pure yellow and olive of the Muted or the pink and blue of the Gossamer. Your hair, likewise, is lighter than that of the Muted - likely strawberry with mango highlights, oranged-copper, and brighter auburn. Your eyes are probably in the green-hazel-amber range. You need clothing in warm, barely muted light to medium tones. A softer apple green, a brighter butter yellow, fresh picked peach (of course!!), chambray blue all suit you beautifully! In your makeup, accent the gorgeous peachy orange tones in your skin and hair with glorious coppers (at the bright end of the spectrum), mid-tone mossy greens, café-au-lait brown, coffee and toffee. Just remember to keep the shades just barely muted - if you drab them down too much, your sparkly beauty will tarnish and dull.

So - armed with the information on your best color ranges, how do you put that into action as the cosmetics counter? Firstly, start with a foundation, concealer and powder that match your skin perfectly in both depth and tone. And if mineral makeup is your thing - as it is mine - then you will undoubtedly find your match at http://www.aromaleigh.com And remember that you do not have to apply foundation over your entire face. In fact, it is more modern to spot apply only where needed - usually under the eyes, around the nose and on the chin - blend well, and dust with translucent powder. If you have chosen the right shades for your skin, there will be no line of demarcation!

Once you’ve got your bases covered - you have chosen the very best match for your skin - you have the delight of playing with colors.
If you are torn between two - or maybe more - redhead types, samples can really help you to narrow it down. Lipsticks, especially, are helpful. If you are an Autumnal redhead, then a swipe of a warm, rich copper will look great on your skin (even if you wouldn’t want to wear it on your mouth for style or personality reasons), while a cool burgundy will just look a bit off. Gossamers can look at the difference between a medium depth clear rose and a muted, tauped-rose. The clear rose will be gorgeous against your skin, while the muted shade, although pretty, will just sort of sit there. High Contrasts can look at the difference between a very muted and subdued browned red and a clear, true red - again, even if you aren’t in the market or the mood for a clear red lipstick, this can be a good color cue. English Roses can use the same shades as a Gossamer would - a clear rose or raspberry against a muted rose or raspberry. And Peaches and cream can test between a copper or russet versus a gentle peach. Your type should become very clear from these experiments. And once you know your type - or types! - color selection gets a whole lot easier and way more fun!

26 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I was happy to see another post! :) I am not a red head but your knowledge of people and their coloring constantly amazes me! You are a wealth of knowledge, thanks for sharing!

3/01/2008 10:13 AM  
Blogger mmeml said...

I always thought it was amazing that my redhead daughter,ever since she was little, looks wonderful in rose and pink - her skin has a luminous pink tone, very distinct from everyone around her. These colors in clothing cause her brown eyes to become nearly green. Phenomenal! Thanks for your interesting analysis.

6/29/2008 5:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey there! Like you, I'm into color typing and I find that the traditional "seasons" are very limited in scope and fail to properly dress 90% of people. Why? Because they're based on the premise that people are either warm or cool, either dark or light, and either bright or muted, with no in-betweens.

But in reality, human coloration exists on a continuum of hue, saturation, lightness and contrast. Someone who is (for example) very light, slightly muted, neutral hue and medium-high contrast wouldn't fit into any one season. She might get typed as a summer for being light and muted, but the summer palette would be bland on her because it would lack the contrast she needs. Or she might be called a spring because she's light and contrasting, but the bright colors in that palette would wash out her muted coloration. Or suppose her hair is very light auburn. Then she'd get called an autumn for sure, which would be terrible - the colors would be way too dark and warm on her. There are much more than 4 possible combinations of color characteristics, and most of us don't fit neatly into the traditional ones.

I'm glad you brought up the plight of a redhead. Being one myself, I've noticed the same thing. I have level 6.5 auburn hair, pale peachy skin and very dark brown eyes. The autumn palette is a bit too warm for me (mustard and orange make me look jaundiced), and many of the shades are too muted (I look heinous in brown or beige). But I look great in jewel tones (forest green, maroon, navy, plum) and oceanic pastels (sage green, peachy pink, soft teal). I can wear black reasonably well, but not white. Green and aqua have been my best friends for a *very* long time!

I'm working on a new method of color typing that is completely personalized for each individual, based on his/her particular spot on the continuums of light-dark, warm-cool, muted-bright and blended-contrasting. If you'd like to help, let me know!

Thanks!

7/29/2008 4:29 PM  
Blogger Karin said...

Have you seen the catalog for Makeup for Redheads? I'm not sure if they still exist, but it's a great source.

I had two cousins who were natural redheads, my mom dyed her hair red, and my aunt had reddish blond hair. Redheads are close to my heart.

8/15/2008 11:48 AM  
Blogger Choculita said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

11/05/2009 3:12 PM  
Blogger Choculita said...

I'm very interested in your analysis. I was "colorized" as a teen. The colorist said, "Autumn... or Spring." Warm, cool, who knows. I'm very new to blogs/forums, but if you don't mind, could I possibly send you my pic to get your help? I'm a redhead but frustrated because I can't tell the undertones of my skin. I'm 31 and can no longer rely on my youth alone to look good. :) Do you have an email address I could send the pic to? Thanks for your help!

11/05/2009 3:33 PM  
Blogger Shelley Evans said...

They should do a TV Series called Red! and each episode has 4 different Redheaded women getting their colours, clothes, hair and makeup done. That would be really interesting!

6/07/2013 6:37 AM  
Blogger Marina said...

Thanks so much! This is a wonderful article to re-discover my color palette. I have recently become a redhead after a lifetime of living in shades of blonde. My little sister went redhead at age 16, and at 21, it really makes her stand out. She has olive skin and hazel eyes. She turns such a dark brown in summer that folks on the street have asked my parents if she was adopted. Rude but interesting.

On the other hand, I have nearly translucent skin in winter and turn very golden (but never brown) in summer. I look so fair some months that people don't believe I can get tan, but I actually turn golden jnstantly and stay there...for ages. Rarely burn. My fiancé has black hair and blue eyes (looks very Spanish with his long curly hair), but he burns to a crisp before I even begin to get a tan line ;)

Anyway, the red hair is perfect for me! People literally stop in grocery stores to exclaim over how great it looks. Yes, it's strange. One guy last week said, "my baby girl was recently born as a redhead and I really hope she grows up and it looks like yours because that shade is beautiful." lol. Ummmm...thanks. I think?

But now I am totally stuck in regard to clothing! As a very light blonde, I wore bright pinks, salmon, mint, and other red-orange shades. Now most of those outfits just look...off. My wardrobe doesn't suit redheads with my skin tone and all the help out there is fairly useless. The only thing I have figured out so far is that bright shades of blue and turquoise are okay because they don't offend the red and look fine on my skin. One color will not work forever so....HELP!!!

8/11/2013 1:49 AM  
Blogger illustrateth said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

12/03/2013 11:45 PM  
Blogger illustrateth said...

I still don't fit this color pallete :(. I'm a natural strawberry blonde (almost gold color in the sun), (which was true red when I was younger) with dark blue eyes and I would've thought maybe I fit into your English rose, but I get the most compliments wearing royal blue and dark blue, think i look better in jewel tones, and look better in black than brown. I do not look good in mustard or olive green.

12/03/2013 11:45 PM  
Blogger Kate said...

Could you link to pictures that are examples of each? I have trouble picturing which one I am...

12/21/2013 11:20 PM  
Blogger Kate said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

12/21/2013 11:20 PM  
Blogger Kate said...

Thank you!

12/21/2013 11:21 PM  
Blogger Hippie4ever said...

Could I also have a link to pictures. I cannot figure out where I am either. Thank you!

1/12/2014 2:41 PM  
Blogger Britgirl said...

Thank you so much for this wonderful post. It now makes better sense to me on what colors in clothing and makeup to wear. I have been searching for so long to find something meaningful. I know that I am an Autumn with medium red hair, very light skin and yellow-green eyes. I feel I will have to read this again to clearly understand, but then again thank you for your help in understanding what redheads go through to look beautiful. Finally this is the first post that I have read that really holds a clear understanding.

9/11/2014 9:21 PM  
Blogger Britgirl said...

I love the colors of beige, camel, caramel, peach and light coral. There are many colors of green and blue I love also. I have a beige sweater with gold strands through it, one of my favorite pieces of clothing. I was first told I was a True Spring, but I disagreed. Having read your wonderful blog I am very surprised that I can be a Soft Autumn if I choose to be. I can't wear bright colors because they make me look like a clown. I prefer the softer clothing and makeup colors.

9/11/2014 9:42 PM  
Blogger titianmom said...

Well, it looks like my titian-haired, fair, rosey, blue-toned skin, muted blue eyed daughter is an English Rose. Curious what "group" she would fall into, and what color swatches would be the best to use???

1/21/2015 7:40 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

I have referred tp this article for 8 years now and have saved it on one of my pinterest boards. I have two redhead daughters; one a high-contrast who looks stunning in black an jewel tones and a muted auburn with olive skin. I however, was told I'm a true spring. The lipstick colors they recommend look ghastly on me; it's just not me. I think I fit the English Rose the most, low-contrast, soft ginger hair, and blue-grey-green eyes; and always told at the makeup counter that I have neutral skin color. I have to remind myself this all the time when I get tempted to buy. Gosh, I use to hate my hair when I was young, but love it now. Thank you.

7/19/2016 12:30 AM  
Blogger Tlyn said...

This article has been incredibly helpful, I've been trying to type my own season for about 3 years now and I like you see myself fitting best into the high contrast redhead category. The colors you spoke about are colors that I typically wear and like the friend you mentioned, I often go with the straight winter palette. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences it makes me feel so much less lonely as a redhead that just doesn't seem to fit anywhete with regard to seasonal color analysis.

8/14/2016 9:09 AM  
Blogger Tlyn said...

This article has been incredibly helpful, I've been trying to type my own season for about 3 years now and I like you see myself fitting best into the high contrast redhead category. The colors you spoke about are colors that I typically wear and like the friend you mentioned, I often go with the straight winter palette. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences it makes me feel so much less lonely as a redhead that just doesn't seem to fit anywhete with regard to seasonal color analysis.

8/14/2016 9:09 AM  
Blogger Curioussupporter said...

So how would each type of redhead correspond with the seasonal colors?

2/16/2021 10:20 AM  
Blogger LadyLav said...

THANK YOU! Holy cow. Everyone kept telling me I was a Spring or Summer, even after explaining that those were my worst colors. I'm completely translucent, and my hair is... an enigma we call red, but is really a genetic mess inherited from both sides of the family. Moms a brunette, Dad's a blonde, both grandmas had red hair, Bro is a fire ginger, and I... range from copper red to dirty ash blonde in the summer and Auburn to brunette in the winter. Honestly, reading this, I was pretty sure I wasn't going to be on the list. Got to gossamer and went, well, at least they got the translucent skin one...

And when I found High Contrast, I cried. Finally, an explanation on why I tend to lean towards Dark winter in the guide books. Thank you so much for this!

5/03/2021 10:22 PM  
Blogger ConfusedRedhead said...

I'm so glad this exists. I've also been struggling with fitting somewhere in the Springs, possibly Bright, possibly Light. I gravitate toward Warm Spring colours on my own, not pastels at all, but I'm really not a girly girl at all, so that could be the reason there. And I look great in black. I was born with orange-copper hair, and now it's less saturated, a lighter copper or even a darker strawberry blonde in the summer. My eyebrows and eyelashes appear almost invisible. My skin is very pale and I can see the blue veins and I think there are pinks in there too, but closer to neutral based on foundations that match best. I'm freckled and I burn easily and don't easily tan, but do a little. My eyes are a grey-blue with a bit of yellowish amber around the pupils and dark navy blue rims around the outside of the irises, so can look grey, blue, turquoise or even dark blue depending on the context. As you can see, I do have a lot of contrast between some features, but some not at all, am very light in some features, but not others, and have very warm hair, cooler/neutral skin, and gray-blue with a touch of yellow, so could also go into different categories. Am I trying too hard to fit in a box? Or are my personal preferences and tomboy style leading me astray? I wore only all black for years lol, so maybe I just need to accept that I'm a pastel and bright spring garden person after all???

5/29/2021 4:46 PM  
Blogger Zephora said...

imo David Zyla's spring archetype might help you lots...esp the Tawny Spring aka The Maverick (likes combat boots) ;)

10/20/2021 5:01 PM  
Blogger Zephora said...

yeah! and how would each redhead correspond with Imogen Lamport's Absolute Colour System!

10/20/2021 5:04 PM  
Blogger Zephora said...

The answers are here: https://youtu.be/prpmwyhpZ8s

1/26/2022 9:16 AM  

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